Vinum Enoteca Calpe by Colin Harkness

1 julio, 2025

Colin Harkness

We probably all have our favourite places to buy wine, here in Spain. Hopefully, those who read my wine reports will be going first to wine shops rather than supermarkets – a point I make in most of my articles. Why? Well firstly you’ll find what you’re after – if it’s not your usual tipple, you’ll be advised of at least one alternative which is equally as enjoyable and possibly, even more so.

You see, a dedicated wine shop has staff on hand who are knowledgeable and trained in wine plus, also very importantly, passionate about it. This is very rare in Spanish supermarkets.

Furthermore, despite what many think, going into a wine shop does not mean that you are going to have to pay more than you usually do for the wines you enjoy and, as above, others you’ve yet to discover. Wine shops are aware that we all have a budget.

Yes, you can buy amazing, but expensive wines there, but you can also buy economic wines which have been carefully chosen. Often these wines will be from small producers who don’t use chemical fertilizers to make vines produce as many grapes as possible, therefore making wines that are not representative of the quality of which the grape varieties are capable, as well as ultimately damaging the soil.

Smaller producers are aware that they are caretakers of the land they farm, responsible for leaving the vineyards in top shape for the next generation. And I say ‘generation’ deliberately because these bodegas are often family concerns whose current incumbents are these days crafting their wines with the benefit of knowledge going back to their grandfathers’ time and before. Plus, they have the benefit of winemaking college degrees and experience of working in other countries to learn more.

So, we’re all agreed then – dedicated wine shops are best for buying wine, and I’m sure we all go to the ones we’re used to, where we know the choice and service will be good, along with the process too. We do, for sure. However, it’s good, I believe to get out a bit more!

I’ve recently been working on a series of articles advising of various local (Marina Alta) wine shops, each having their own choices and specialities. I’ve certainly gained from visiting these different vinotecas and I’m sure you will too.

Next in the series is Vinum Enoteca, just a cork’s pop from the beach in Calpe. There’s parking nearby, so I’d recommend going to Calpe for the day – enjoy its beach, the sea, the shops and restaurants, of course, and before returning home call in to the wine shop. Perhaps knock the sand off your feet first?!

I was at Vinum Enoteca recently. It’s an easy downhill journey from our home in Jalón and when I entered, the welcome, the array of wines, the small ‘bar’ and the seating convinced me that longer journeys to visit would also be well worthwhile.

It was English speaking Katerina, assistant and friend of owner, Elena, who showed me around the shop and the small inside specialist tasting area where I couldn’t help drooling over the top-quality wines stored therein. Six years ago Elena opened the specialist wine shop with a partner who, like myself, had Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) qualifications.

However, he/she (I’m not sure!) decided to quit the business a couple of years ago leaving Elena, an experienced wine lover but without any formal training etc, to run it herself. Now, that’s not easy as the wine business is a dynamic, constantly evolving one and if you want to provide a correct, professional, as well as personal service you have to go with it, and grow with it.

Enter Katerina – again a lady without formal qualifications but with a history of experience tasting and learning about wines in her native Moscow. It was clear to me that Katerina is knowledgeable and the two ladies together are helping each other develop a sound business.

I know a number of wine friends and colleagues in the area who regularly visit Vinum Enoteca and speak highly of it. I’ve now joined that cohort.

Sitting on the comfortable bar-style stools to chat with my hosts I was invited to enjoy one of the several wines they had open that day for tasting. This is a part of the concept – customers can enjoy a glass of wine from an ever-changing list, at good prices (approx. 3.00 – 5.00€, whilst they select those they want to buy. It’s possible that you may be able to taste at least one of the wines you are thinking of before you actually buy it. Mine was a lovely Godello, nicely chilled and priced at just 4.50€.

Their central philosophy is making sure that their customers are satisfied. If a certain wine is sought but not available here yet, it’s very likely that they’ll be able to order it for you. This, of course, helps develop the list, so others can benefit too.

There are plans to develop further – as there must aways be if wine shops are to keep ahead of the game, the more so in a country such as Spain. My friend and colleague, Master of Wine, Sarah Jane Evans MW has written and often said that Spain is the most dynamic wine producing country in the world.

Unfortunately, I had to miss the tutored tasting that went ahead in the Vinum Enoteca recently as we were away (cruising, actually – it’s a hard life working on ocean and river cruises!). I believe it was a great success and more are planned. Also, cultural events are to be held there, for example a painting exhibition and explanation by an expert – with wine and snacks served too. There will be others as well.

The aim is to consolidate the business and expand the range, the events etc.

Well, it would have been crazy of me not to take advantage of some of the wines available from a fairly comprehensive list of local, regional, national and international choices, so these are my brief comments.

Equilibrio, Sauvignon Blanc from DO Jumilla. Known more for its impressive, rich reds, Jumilla ca also craft quality white wines too. The ever-popular SB here is something of a bridge between the very fruity (over-fruity?) New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and the more subtle French versions. Priced at 7.50€ it was a great start at home later.

To celebrate the weekend (we always do, don’t you?) as well as the arrival of our boy (nearly 26 years old now, but, well you know, he’ll always be our little lad!) from London, we opened the very impressive Reserva Brut Sumarroca Cava 2022. The quite long cellar ageing in bottle delivers a fine, mature sparkler which, crucially, retains its fresh exuberance. A lovely aperitif but also with the body to accompany amuse bouches/tapas, certainly, as well as fish and light meat dishes.

Yrma Calafuig 2022 is a full, rich dark fruits wine with a little earthiness and wild herb on the nose – but, really, this wine, so well-priced at under 10€ is all about its black cherry and plum fruit. Made with Monastrell, Cab. Sauv. and Merlot it’s one of the best sellers at Vinum Enoteca.

Bodegas El Grillo de la Luna, is one of the leading wineries in DO Somontano and Hip, Hop one of their finest wines. Made with Garnacha and Syrah with time in French oak barrels it’s a wine that bucks the current trend for lighter, less rich wines with a lower alcohol count – and it’s proud of it! Lots rich dark fruit, including damsons, with oak back-up too. My wife, particularly, loved its bold presence and long finish.