«Foire aux Vins d’Agonac» by Colin Harkness

Colin Harkness

THE AGONAC WINE FAIR has been a highlight of the Perigord summer callender for 40 years now – and we were lucky enough to attend the anniversary, just a few weeks ago. You have to hand it to the French, their appreciation and celebration of two of the quintessential French affairs – food and wine, are exemplary, certainly in the Dordogne area! A country that has wonderful produce, knows how to prepare it, and how to promote it, is a veritable haven for foodies and winos like ourselves.

Marché Gourmands proliferate during the summer months as do wine fairs, often the two are inextricably linked, as indeed was the case when we drove the short distance from our campsite base* in beautiful Brantôme to the agricultural village of Agonac. The annual wine fair here is legendary, attracting local exhibitors, of course, but also those from such hallowed lands as Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, the Rhône, Champagne and more.

They come because they know that the many attendees appreciate fine wine, local, regional and national – and, one of their raisons d’etre, the public isn’t shy when it comes to buying! When we were there, we saw many visitors loading, not just bottles, but cases of wine into the boots of their cars – and going back for more!

I’d meant to contact the organisers before attending to ask about the format of the fair and to say that we would be there to research an article or two, but I forgot. No worries though – when I approached a group of officials, all clad in a red staff t-shirt, flashing my Circle of Wine Writers Card (CWW), we were welcomed into their ranks, to the point of my being made an honorary member of staff for the day – t-shirt and all!

The fair was a great success. All wine stall holders were happy to pour a small, but large enough tasting sample of whichever wines we wanted to try. Plus, the stalls selling a variety of food to eat and produce to buy – cheeses (of course!), meats, dried sausages, honey, walnut oil, fruit and so on – were all doing a roaring trade. Every now and then the resident wind instrument band’s music would strike up adding further atmosphere to this friendly, welcoming show!

From the many wine tastings I have attended, and indeed presented, I always like to start with a sparkling wine – so we made our way to the SCEA Bastide et Fils stand where there were chilled Crémant bottles attracting my eye, as well as several still wines. When in France one automatically thinks of Champagne, but then, in my case at least, one thinks of one’s budget! I love Champagne, but I don’t go along with their belief that is the only quality sparkling wine – as regular readers will know.

So, I look for alternatives made in the same way but not usually with the same grape varieties. Crémant can give the same quality as Champagne as well as diversity of aromas and flavours – and at a more economic price. Lagrange Bastide Crémant de Bordeaux Brut Nature was outstanding – yet priced at only 12.20€! In fact this is the most ‘expensive’ of their Crémants, the others being priced at an almost incredible price of just 7.30€!

It’s made with 100% Semillon, one of the key white wine varieties of Bordeaux, of course, and it has clearly enjoyed its 24 months in bottle before being released onto the market. 0% residual sugar makes it bone dry, the style I prefer, but the fruit of the Semillon, a variety rarely found in Spain, shines through, giving it also a good weight on the palate and quite long finish. What a start!

Now, in the interests of balance, I thought it only fair to visit a Champagne stand too. If looking for high quality Champagne it’s best to avoid the larger producers – unless you want to spend a lot of money for their top, prestige cuvées. The famous names we see – launching a ship, for example; or being sprayed all over the F1 fans nearest the podium etc, are not, in truth, the best examples of this iconic sparkling wine. Far better, if you have the time, to search out smaller ‘Grower Champagne’ producers – like Champagne Eric Collinet.

Again, the CWW card was a door-opener, giving us access to the full range of Monsieur et Madame Collinet’s excellent wines. They are certified biodynamic, with a small production and each of the wines has a personality all of its own. Quality is the byword here and at prices starting at 20€, well – they too are outstanding. I tasted four, all of which I would buy and one of which was better than the Crémant mentioned above. They are all Brut, with residual sugars ranging from 2-5 grams per litre to just 5 grams per litre, so they are all refreshingly dry.

I felt it my duty, naturally, to try as many wines as I could from the stands, to give all a fair chance (I wasn’t driving!) – but of course, there isn’t space here to record all of my thoughts and tasting notes. However, it would be totally remiss of me not to mention the best red wine I have tasted this year, along with one of the very best whites too.

I’m a great lover and champion of Spanish wines as readers over the last 30 years will know, but I’m also an honest, unbiased judge and it would be ridiculous of me to suggest that it’s only Spain that makes wonderful wine. Our neighbours over the Pyrenees continue to craft truly wonderful wines too, of course. And my favourites, as above, of this year so far are both French.

When I hear the word Viognier, that superb French white wine grape variety from the Rhône, my ears naturally prick up. I wonder always if it’s going to be the same quality as the Condrieu I occasionally have the delight to try. It rarely is. So, when I see, at this village wine fair in Agonac, a stand offering the very wine itself, Condrieu, I can’t help myself!

Maison Baptistine had a queue of people waiting to try their wares, but I eventually found a place and I’m so pleased I did. For it was here that I tasted not only the Condrieu, but also my best wine of the year, Côte Roti!

Ernestine AOC Condrieu 2023 was just lovely. Slightly understated dried apricot aromas, typical of the variety, a super mouthfeel and a long fruit- filled, dry finish. Wow.

And talking of the Wow factor, I can hardly describe Alexa AOC Côte Roti 2024 – it’s exquisite, superb wine making at its best! 97% Syrah with just 3% Viognier – yes, the white variety above, but in a red wine. It’s not obligatory to use Viognier in Côte Roti, along with the definitely required Syrah, but many producers do. I, as you might have guessed, am very much in favour of its use.

When used, producers do so to add an extra aromatic dimension to the finished product – and oh boy, does that work with this one. You wouldn’t imagine that just three percent can make such a difference, yet it does, therefore explaining in a way, the aromatic power of Viognier. Put simply, this wine is stunning!

Sadly, at 65€, it’s out of my price range – but if you have larger pockets than me (not difficult!) I strongly recommend you find this wine and buy at least a case. If it’s tasting as wonderful as this when it’s so young, imagine what 10 years will do to the wine! Recommended ageing time (always assuming perfect ageing conditions) is ten years through to 20 years, with longer for exceptional years (2024 was, I believe a very good year, but not necessarily exceptional). So, this wine, unbelievably in a way, will become better!

To finish: I’m not sure if La Foire Aux Vins d’Agonac is always held at the beginning of August, but a little AI/Google searching will provide an answer for you – so that you too can thoroughly enjoy this event. We really did and I’ve got the t-short to prove it!

Merci beaucoup mes amis!

*Brantôme Camping Far Ouest

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